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DIA DE LOS MUERTOS CELEBRACION! ENCHILADAS
ROJA Y GUACAMOLE
Having spent my first seven years in California, I was introduced
to Mexican food early in my life. Trips back to California, to the
American Southwest, and to Mexico have refined my taste of Mexican
cuisine, which is truly more sophisticated and complex than many
people realize. As with any sophisticated cuisine, some dishes are
more complex than others, and this enchilada sauce is one of those,
but I've broken it into simpler components for ease in creating
this delicious dish. I've followed it with a much easier recipe,
traditional Guacamole. Serve them together with some white rice,
and you have the red, green and white of the Mexican flag!
Try these recipes to celebrate Dia de Los Muertos, the Mexican
Day of the Dead. Dia de Los Muertos is celebrated on November 1,
when the veil between the world is said to be thinnest (as with
the Celtic Samhain). It is a holiday when ancestors and family are
remembered. Your family and friends will remember you when you make
these two delicacies for them!
ENCHILADAS IN RED SAUCE/ENCHILADAS ROJA
All of the flavors of these enchiladas harmonize into an exciting
whole. Admittedly, this is one of my most time-intensive recipes,
but it's worth the investment (a friend who once lived in Mexico
said that these enchiladas were the second-best Mexican food he
had ever eaten
I have no intention of competing with someone's
abuelita for the top position!). This is also one of my rare recipes
that requires a blender (it's better than a food processor, although
a food processor can be used, as can a large mortar and pestle for
a truly labor-intensive process). Give the enchiladas a try using
the chicken as specified, or any of the variations suggested at
the end (or just make the sauce and use it for the yummy applications
below). One complete recipe will provide about 4 hearty servings,
6 small servings, or 12 appetizer portions.
For the sauce:
- 4 medium dried chiles (ancho, or other), toasted in a dry skillet,
seeded and stemmed, to loosely fill 2 cups (about 2 ounces)
- 1 small to medium onion, coarsely chopped (about 1 c, or 2-3
oz).
- 3 large cloves garlic (about 1 T, heaping), chopped coarsely
- 1 c tomato sauce (about 1 8-oz can).
- Up to 1 t salt
- Up to 2 t sugar
- ½ t oregano (preferably Mexican)
For the chicken:
- 1.5 lbs chicken, cut up (ideally two hind quarters)
- 5 cinnamon sticks
- bay leaves (Californian or Mediterranean)
- 2 T peppercorns, whole
- 2 T salt
- 2 c water
For the enchiladas:
- 12 corn tortillas (one package)
- ¼ lb cheese, finely grated (use cotija, anejo, Chihuahua,
cheddar, mozzarella, Monterey jack, parmesan, pecorino, asiago
or your favorite).
- 2 T fat, separated (olive oil, vegetable oil, or other; lard and
corn oil are traditional)
Cook the chicken: Place the chicken
in a large (10") saucepan with the cinnamon sticks, bay leaves,
peppercorns and salt, plus about 2 c water (to cover the chicken
about half way). Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer,
and cook for about 30 minutes, covered, turning once or twice. To
test doneness, pierce the thickest part of chicken with a sharp
fork or knife; if the juices run clear, the chicken is cooked. Remove
the chicken to a dish, allow it to cool enough to handle, and removed
all skin, bones and cartilage. Shred the chicken meat with your
hands, and toss with about ½ c of the poaching liquid (NOTE:
this poaching liquid can be refrigerated for a couple of days, or
frozen for several months to use as a flavorful stock). The shredded
chicken can be covered and refrigerated overnight at this point
(the poaching liquid will cool to a gelatinous consistency; gentle
heating will return the liquidity).
Make the sauce: Toast the dried
chiles (whole) in a dry skillet or on a griddle/comal over medium-high
heat for about 30 seconds per side, then turning and toasting them
for 30 more seconds (the chiles will darken slightly, become more
aromatic, and noticeably soften, so be sure to toast long enough
for all three of these things to happen). Remove the chiles from
the skillet and allow them to cool enough to handle. Tear the chiles
open, and remove the stem and as many seeds and ribs as desired
(the ribs have excessive heat, plus both the seeds and ribs have
a slightly excessive bitter quality). Tear the chiles into pieces,
place in a bowl, and add enough hot tap water to cover, about 1
cup (you can choose to boil some water for this, but I figure, "Why
bother?"; it is less bother to place the chiles and their covering
liquid into the microwave for about 30 seconds). Allow the chiles
to rehydrate in the hot water for about 30 minutes.
To complete the sauce, take the chile pieces from the soaking water
and place them into the blender canister; reserving the water. Add
the garlic, and blend until smooth, scraping the sides of the canister
if necessary to finely chop all of the garlic. Add the onion chunks,
tomato sauce, oregano and ½ t salt, and blend until smooth.
Taste the mixture to determine if more salt is necessary, whether
the mixture is too thick (it should be quite loose; add a couple
tablespoons of the chile soaking liquid if needed), and whether
the sauce is too bitter (if bitter, add sugar ½ t at a time,
blending and tasting until the flavor is balanced). When the blending
is complete, strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a
clean bowl, using a spoon or rubber spatula to press the sauce through,
leaving the skin fragments and any seeds in the sieve so that they
can be discarded after the outer surface of the sieve is scraped
to get the last remnants of sauce; straining is important to avoid
gastric distress. At this point, the sauce can be refrigerated overnight,
or frozen up to a year.
Assemble the enchiladas: Heat an
8" skillet over medium high heat, add 1T of the fat and swirl
until skillet bottom is covered, and continue heating until curls
of steam rise. Add the sauce, and cook for about 1 minute, stirring
constantly. Turn off heat, and continue stirring to avoid burning
and to help cool the sauce so that it can be handled. Gently heat
the shredded chicken if it has been refrigerated, or use at room
temperature. Meanwhile, cook the tortillas by first separating them
(they tend to stick together in the package), then re-stacking them.
Wrap the entire stack in paper towels or a tea towel, place them
in a bowl or a pie plate (for easy handling of the hot tortillas)
and heat them in a microwave for about 1 minute (or in a steamer
over boiling water for about 10 minutes; you can also lightly fry
each one, but microwaving and steaming are much easier).
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. On the stovetop or on a work surface,
arrange the chicken, cooled sauce, warm tortillas and cheese around
an 8"x13" baking dish that has been greased with the remaining
1T of fat. Take one tortilla, dip into the sauce until one side
is covered, then turn and dredge until the second side is covered
with sauce, allow excess sauce to drip back into the skillet (you
may want to scrape a bit of the sauce off the tortilla as well.
Place the sauce-covered tortilla into the baking dish, spoon 1/12th
of the chicken (about 2 T) into a line across the diameter of the
tortilla, top with 1 T of cheese, and roll up, placing the rolled
enchilada (edges down) at one end of the baking dish. Repeat with
the remaining 11 tortillas, placing each rolled enchilada tightly
next to the preceding one (depending on the exact shape of your
baking dish, you may need to place the last one or two enchiladas
perpendicular to the others, along the edge of the baking dish).
All of the chicken will be used. Evenly scatter the remaining cheese
on top of all of the enchiladas. Bake the enchiladas for about 20
minutes, just until the cheese is melted. Serve immediately with
beans (see http://www.god-dess.com/services_recipesMar03.html
for guidance), rice and a romaine salad dressed with olive oil,
lime juice, salt and pepper (and certainly some guacamole on the
side; see recipe below).
Leftover enchiladas can be wrapped and frozen, though the tortillas
will tend to flake during reheating.
Variations:
Any type of pre-cooked meat, poultry or fish can be used for these
enchiladas. Whether the meat, poultry or fish has been pan-seared,
grilled, roasted, barbequed, poached, fried, smoked or prepared
otherwise, you can de-bone (if needed) and use the flesh in these
enchiladas. You can even use small cubes of tofu in them, or leftover
vegetables (steamed, roasted, fried, whatever)! The final flavor
profile will be slightly different from the original recipe above,
but flexibility is my goal in designing recipes, and your experimentation
may create an even more satisfying flavor profile! You can also
add some of the following ingredients, some being traditional, some
being more contemporary: olives (green or black, pitted); capers;
raisins; nopales (cactus strips, fresh or brined); pickled onions;
fresh or pickled jalapenos; frijoles refritos (refried beans, also
found at http://www.god-dess.com/services_recipesMar03.html
); crema (substitute sour cream if unavailable), or use your imagination!
Applications:
The [remaining] sauce can be used in breakfast burritos, or for
chilaquiles, or even as a simple dip for tortilla chips. You can
also use the sauce to barbeque your favorite meat or vegetables.
It is so flexible, so delicious!
GUACAMOLE
Every abuelita in Mexico has her own version of guacamole. My Irish
mother had her own version. Here is mine (with a few variations,
of course!).
- 1 c avocado (preferably Haas; about 2 small avocados, more or less)
- ¼ c onion (about 1 small onion), finely minced
- 1 to 2 T fresh chile, finely minced (jalapeno, Serrano, or your
favorite)
- ½ t salt
- about 1 t garlic, finely minced (about 1-2 cloves) (optional)
- 2 to 4 T lime juice (1 to 2 limes) (you may substitute lemon or
orange juice for nice effects)
Combine all ingredients in a bowl, starting with 2 T lime juice.
Mix with a fork, using it to gently break up and smash the avocado,
leaving it in small chunks. Serve immediately, or chilled, with tortilla
chips.
Variations:
Mexican Flag Guacamole: Prepare
as above, but add ½ c finely diced fresh tomato and an additional
½ t salt. The name comes from the colors of this mixture:
Green (avocado, chiles), White (onion, garlic) and Red (tomato).
Yule Guacamole: this version is
inspired by Diana Kennedy, noted authority on Mexican cuisine, who
reports that during the winter holiday season, pomegranate seeds
are added to guacamole. To make my version of her recipe, add ½
c pomegranate seeds (about ½ of a pomegranate) to any version
of Guacamole.
Tropical Guacamole: To any version of Guacamole, add ½
finely chopped fruit of your choice (mangoes, papayas, bananas,
red or green apples [leave the red skin on!], red or green grapes
(halved, with seeds removed), apricots, peaches, pears or plums.
Nutty Guacamole: A nice textural
(and flavor) quality involves the addition of ½ c chopped
(ideally toasted) nuts of your choice (cashews, pepitas, sunflower
seeds, peanuts, Brazil nuts or your personal favorite) to any version
of Guacamole.
Cilantro Guacamole: To any version
of Guacamole, add 2-4 T chopped or torn fresh cilantro. There is
a tradition that cilantro should not be used in tandem with lime
juice, but if you like it, do it.
Applications:
Add any version of guacamole to any other food. It's great on cooked
beans (especially black beans; http://www.god-dess.com/services_recipesMar03.html
and http://www.god-dess.com/services_recipesApril03.html
). Use it as an excellent condiment (on top or inside) with Mexican
or Southwestern food, such as your favorite enchiladas, burritos,
tostadas or tacos. For breakfast or brunch, a dollop of guacamole
is terrific on chilaquiles or scrambled eggs, or in a breakfast
burrito. I like it on top of poached or pan-seared fish (with an
additional squeeze of lime or lemon, please!). It's delicious alongside
poached chicken with a summer salad tossed with a nice lime vinaigrette
(especially using Romaine lettuce and crumbles of a dry Mexican
cheese like cotija or anejo cheese, or use feta or pecorino/parmesan/asiago
if you can't find Mexican cheeses). Add a spoonful to a hamburger,
or to any other sandwich you are making. Remember, heating guacamole
doesn't help it, but don't let that worry you as you experiment
with your own applications.
Now you have the guidelines for a real fiesta to celebrate Dia
de los Muertos, or any other occasion that needs celebrating (say,
next Tuesday, for example). Let me know how these recipes worked
for your personal celebrations at 773.508.9208 or bret@god-dess.com.
Hasta la vista, mi amigos y amigas!
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