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Beans, legumes, pulses: an entire world
of deliciousness!
I don’t think that there is a single country
on the planet that does not include some member of the legume family
in its cuisine (if you know of one, please e-mail me). Rightly so,
too, because these little treasures are affordable, easy to store,
easy to use and delicious! Sadly, lots of people complain about
the gastrointestinal effects of eating beans and their relatives
(“Beans, beans, the musical fruit!”). There are only
three answers to these people: First, make sure you cook beans thoroughly;
they contain certain sugars and carbohydrates that humans have difficulty
digesting unless broken down by heat. Second, chew your food better!
You would be surprised how much better you are able to digest EVERYTHING
if you just chew better, longer and more slowly … taste and
enjoy your food. Third, eat more beans! Yes, they have a lot of
fiber, and if your body is not accustomed to handling fiber, you
will react. Take this as a sign that your body needs more fiber!
If you are getting the correct amount of fiber in your diet, your
body won’t react. Let your body tell you what it needs. And
while you are doing that, remember that this is National Colorectal
Cancer Awareness Month (see Senses of Living Holidays for March
2003), and eat a few beans for your health!
There are so many recipes out there that just
seem somewhat disjointed. After this month of Simple! Sensible!
Sensational! recipes, they won’t be so disjointed. My approach
to cooking is reminiscent of the old sketch from Saturday Night
Live, parodying late night commercials: “It’s a floor
wax! No, it’s a dessert topping!” That approximates
my approach to cooking, and it is exemplified in these legume recipes:
a single recipe can be a side dish, a burrito or quesadilla filling,
a bruschetta topping, a pasta/rice sauce, a soup base, a dip for
chips or veggies (or fingers), a sandwich spread, a bed for sliced
meat or poultry or fish. There is no limit to how these powerhouses
of health can be added to your diet.
This month, because I am trying to show the relationships
of disparate recipes, I’m going to bypass the basic cooking
of dried beans and other legumes in favor of using canned products.
I usually prefer cooking my own dried beans because they have so
much more flavor, so I’ll address “Basic Beans”
in the future. Meanwhile, watch the sales at your neighborhood markets,
and stock up on chickpeas/garbanzos, kidney beans, black beans,
and great white Northerns/cannellinis. Plus, since it’s spring,
see if you can locate some fresh peas or fava beans to make the
delicious green sauce below (Roman Beans). Realize, too, that different
brands of the same types of beans will sometimes have different
flavors; the amounts of seasonings that I present are guidelines,
so if your beans are unusually bland, increase the seasonings. Also
remember to rinse and drained canned beans prior to using.
As you work through these recipes, please consider
the following:
- Beans are great hot, cold or at room temperature.
- Beans have a natural affinity for garlic.
- Beans are delicious for breakfast, lunch, dinner or as a late
night snack.
Hummus
If you use canned chickpeas (also known as garbanzos), this entire
recipe can be prepared without any heat, making it the perfect summer
dish.
- 2 c chickpeas, cooked (1 c dry or about 1 can)
- 3 T olive oil
- 3 T lemon juice (about 1 large lemon)
- 3 T tahini
- 1 T garlic, finely minced (about 3 small cloves or 1 large clove)
- ½ t salt (more or less depending on the saltiness of the
beans)
- 1 t ground cumin (optional)
- 2 T minced fresh parsley (optional)
Press the chickpeas through a food mill or potato
ricer, collecting the pressings in a bowl; periodically, clean the
sturdy pieces out of the mill or ricer, and add them to the pressings
for a nice texture. To the pressed chickpeas, add the remaining
ingredients, and stir together until mixed.
Alternatively, all of the ingredients can be placed in the bowl
of a blender or food processor; blend/process until smooth, and
turn out into a bowl.
Hummus is traditionally served at room temperature with a drizzle
of exceptional olive oil on top, but it is delicious even without
the extra olive oil. I serve it with crudités, crackers,
pita triangles, lavash or good crusty bread, with such accompaniments
as roasted red peppers, capers, olives (both black and green), toasted
pine nuts or walnuts, a few whole cooked chickpeas, and even hot
sauce. I have kept frozen hummus for at least a year.
I have seen so
many versions of hummus, it is mind-boggling. What is mind-boggling
is that some people seem to think they’ve created a new recipe,
when actually, it is just a variation on a theme. Here are some
of those variations:
When I was first
introduced to hummus while in high school, the woman who shared
it with me had just returned from Israel where a splash of hot sauce
is often used. Since then, I have often incorporated some spicy
element directly into the hummus, such as 1 t chile powder, 1 T
hot sauce, or for a smoky AND spicy version, add 1 finely minced
chipotle chile (canned, in adobo sauce).
“International Hummus”: All this recipe involves is
substituting other legumes for chickpeas, leaving out the tahini
if desired, and possibly replacing the lemon juice with lime juice,
orange juice, wine vinegar or balsamic; olive oil can be replaced
by clarified butter (ghee), toasted sesame oil or any other fat
(lard is a popular and tasty addition in Mexico and elsewhere).
Parsley, cilantro, celery tops, dill and other herbs can be added
for flavor and color. Chopped olives, chopped roasted red peppers,
capers, chopped dill or sweet pickles, chopped peperoncini, and
other condiments can be added for flavor, color and texture. Keeping
chickpeas (and calling them garbanzos) but replacing the lemon with
lime and adding cilantro and maybe 1 T smoked paprika says “Spain”
to me. Black beans (with lime or orange) often say, “Cuba.”
Pinto or kidney beans (with lime or orange, and some cilantro, and
don’t forget the chipotle) remind me of Mexico. Cannellini
beans with (balsamico and a bit of rosemary) proclaim “Tuscany”
better than almost any other ingredient. Mash some steamed edamame
(soy beans) with ginger, some rice wine vinegar and toasted sesame
oil for a Japanese version.
Applications:
To avoid redundancy, see the applications below for Every Day Beans.
These versions of hummus can be used in virtually all of the same
ways.
Every Day Beans
Theoretically, this recipe is identical to hummus, except that all
of the ingredients are cooked and heated up (they may be chilled
later, though!). They can be left whole, or mashed, or somewhere
in between. I call them “Every Day Beans” because, with
so many variations and applications, you can eat them daily and
not even realize it!
- 1 ½ to 2 c cooked beans (one can, or 1 c dried beans)
- 1 T finely minced garlic (3-5 small cloves or 1 or 2 large cloves)
(roasted garlic is delicious variation)
- ¼ c olive oil, toasted sesame seed oil, butter (clarified
or not), bacon fat, lard or other fat
- up to ¼ c lemon juice, lime juice, orange juice, wine vinegar,
balsamic vinegar, or even wine (red or white)
- ½ t salt (more or less depending on the saltiness of the
beans)
- about ¼ c water (more if needed to attain desired consistency)
In a heavy pan, heat the olive oil or other
fat over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for about
1 minute (this is the Italian aglio e olio, a foundation of many
recipes, Italian or not). Add the cooked beans and stir to incorporate.
Add the citrus juice or vinegar, and the water. Stir to combine.
Allow to heat through, and serve immediately, or at room temperature,
or chilled. These beans, all of their variations, and many of the
applications can be frozen for at least a year. Keep them on hand
for quick meals and meal enhancements.
Variations:
when the beans are added to the sautéing garlic, add 1 lb
of your favorite greens, well washed and cut into coarse strips,
about 4 c. I like to add spinach, kale, collards, mustard or mixed
greens. This is one of the simplest and healthiest preparations
you can imagine, as well as one of the most beautiful. For, Every
Day Beans, Greens and Toms, add 1 c of diced tomatoes (or chopped
roasted tomatoes) or 1 c of tomato sauce (one 8 oz can) to Every
Day Beans and Greens (or just add the tomatoes to Every Day Beans).
Below, wherever “Every Day Beans” are mentioned, they
can be substituted with Every Day Beans and Greens or Every Day
Beans, Greens and Toms for exceptional results (and a little more
variety and nutrition).
I would
like to call this “Bean Puree,” but that implies an
even consistency which can only be achieved with a blender or food
processor, and I’m not about to encourage you to dirty some
more dishes for a pile of mashed beans … do as I do, and tell
your fellow diners that you worked very hard to obtain the particular
irregular texture of the beans, and that this is the “authentic”
way to prepare beans (everyone loves the word “authentic”).
Anyway, take Every Day Beans, still in the sauté pan, and
start mashing them with a fork until you get the desired consistency
(and reduce your stress level). See these additional variations
for delicious options:
My friend
Lynne inspired my first experiments with frijoles refritos (refried
beans) when we were undergraduates. She used pinto beans then, so
I use pinto beans now or sometimes kidney beans. I follow the recipe
for Every Day Bean Mash, using lime juice for the “sour”
element, but adding about 1 t of ground cumin, and maybe some chopped
cilantro at the end (about 2 T). If you can find it, 1 T finely
chopped epazote gives an authentic flavor (you can increase the
amount, but see if you like it first; epazote is somewhat of an
acquired taste). For an extra spicy and smoky kick, add 1 T of your
favorite chile powder, or one finely minced chipotle chile in adobo
sauce to the mix.
This
recipe is inspired by the refried black beans that Rick Bayless
serves at his Frontera Grill in Chicago. Redolent of garlic, his
beans are magnificent. To achieve a similar result, follow the recipe
for Every Day Bean Mash, using black beans and doubling the amount
of garlic. From there, follow the recipe for regular Frijoles Refritos.
If you serve these to other people, please warn them about the abundance
of garlic (and chile powder or minced chipotle, if you add it)!
Follow the recipe for Every Day Beans or Every Day Bean Mash, using
pinto or kidney beans, some bacon fat instead of olive oil, beer
or lime juice instead of the lemon juice, and adding up to 1 t ground
sage or 1 T whole leaf dried sage (crumbled between your hands).
You can also add 1 T of your favorite chile powder, or one finely
minced chipotle chile in adobo sauce. Leave the beans intact, or
mash them.
Follow the recipe
for Every Day Beans or Every Day Bean Mash, using cannellini beans,
extra-virgin olive oil, lemon juice or balsamic vinegar or red wine
vinegar, and adding 1 t ground rosemary (or a little more if the
rosemary is dried and whole, being sure to break up the leaves by
rubbing them between your palms or smashing them in a mortar and
pestle). Adding about 1 t red chile flakes is also appropriate.
Leave the beans intact, or mash them.
Follow the recipe
for Tuscan Beans, but use fresh fava beans instead of cannellinis.
Use lemon juice as the sour element. Add 2 T fresh mint in a fine
chiffonade, or 1 T dried crumbled mint. Leave the beans intact,
or mash them. Be tempted by knowing that this dish is a beautiful
green color, so festive for spring. (NOTE: there is actually a type
of spotted bean that is sometimes called a Roman bean; it has nothing
to do with this recipe, but would still taste delicious prepared
in the general method of Every Day Beans). (NOTE 2: try replacing
the fava beans with fresh or frozen peas … delicious, and
just as beautiful).
Follow the
recipe for Every Day Beans or Every Day Bean Mash, using fresh (or
frozen) edamame (soybeans), with toasted sesame seed oil, some rice
wine vinegar, and about 1 t finely minced fresh ginger along with
1T garlic. Leave the beans intact, or mash them.
Follow the recipe
for Every Day Beans, using black beans, olive oil, lime juice and
garlic, plus a couple of bay leaves or 1 t of ground bay leaves
(laurel molido in Hispanic markets). These are best left whole rather
than mashed, but they are your beans, so do anything you want with
them!
Applications:
Combine one part of any type of Every Day Beans with one part of
steamed rice (preferably white, if you want to be traditional).
If you use Cuban Beans, you can call the dish Mores y Cristianos
or congri. Serve with hot sauce or finely minced fresh chiles. The
beans and rice can be completely mixed, or the beans can be served
on top of the rice, or the rice can be served on top of the beans.
Combine
one part Every Day Beans (made with kidney beans or pigeon peas),
olive oil, lime juice, garlic and a couple of bay leaves or 1 t
of ground bay leaves (laurel molido) with one part steamed rice
(preferably white). To every 2 cups of bean-rice mixture, add ½
can (1 scant cup) coconut milk. Stir to combine (sometimes this
preparation tends to be gloppy and sticky, so you may need to add
some additional water to loosen it). Serve as a main course or with
some sautéed greens with shrimp and the remaining cup of
coconut milk (kallaloo). Jerk Chicken or Jerk Pork also goes well
with these beans.
Pasta sauces: one batch of Every Day Beans or Every Day Bean Mash
will sauce a full pound of pasta. I prefer to use the Mash, and
to loosen it with the pasta cooking water, to create a creamy sauce
that coats every piece of pasta. Top with some grated hard cheese,
and you have a fantastic meal. An interesting aside, some diet specialists
refer to a similar preparation as a sort of Alfredo Sauce; in my
opinion, it isn’t, but it is still delicious, and it is much
healthier than the original Alfredo Sauce (which is also very delicious,
and good for an occasional treat).
to a batch of Every
Day Beans or Every Day Bean Mash, add one to two cups of stock or
milk, stir to combine, and heat thoroughly. A bay leaf or two will
add additional flavor. Serve with crusty bread. Adding about ½
to 1 c diced ham, leftover chicken, beef or pork roast, lamb chops,
cooked sausage or other meat will result in a heartier soup/chowder.
To one batch
of Tuscan or Roman Beans (left whole), add two to three cups of
stock and one cup of small pasta (elbows, ditalini, shells, cavatappi,
rotini, or your favorite; spaghetti-like pastas do not work well).
Add 1 t dried oregano, and simmer until pasta is tender, about 10
minutes. A generous grating of hard cheese is an optional but excellent
addition.
Any of the versions
of Every Day Bean Mash can be used as a dip for crudités,
chips of any kind, pita quarters (toasted or not) or firm bread.
Loosen the Mash with a bit of water, stock or citrus juice to loosen
the mixture, and consider grating some of your favorite cheese on
top. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Burritos
and wraps can be made with either corn or flour tortillas, but I
prefer flour because they don’t require the additional step
of frying (with or without oil) that is necessary to use corn tortillas
(sometimes I wrap corn tortillas in a towel and microwave them for
quicker, easier handling). Spread any of the Every Day Bean Mashes
down the center of a tortilla, and top with any of the following:
sour cream, scrambled eggs, cooked sausage (any kind), leftover
chicken, leftover turkey or smoked turkey, leftover or freshly cooked
chopped/sliced meat, leftover or freshly cooked and flaked fish,
canned tuna (in oil or water), smoked salmon/gravlax, caviar (I
particularly like Collins Caviar from Chicago) chopped olives, capers,
leftover or freshly cooked chopped vegetables (root, leafy, fruits
[like tomatoes] or other), salsa, hot sauce, mustard, chopped chiles,
chopped or slivered olives, toasted nuts, slivered lettuce (romaine
or other non-iceberg, please), leftover veggies, grated cheese of
any kind. Roll up the burrito/wrap and eat it, or microwave for
a minute or two, or bake at 350 degrees for about 5 minutes (if
you use lettuce in your burrito, please don’t heat it).
Quesadillas
are a sort of tortilla sandwich, created by folding a tortilla in
half over fillings, or covering one tortilla with fillings, and
placing another on top. The resulting sandwich can be cooked on
a grill, or in a large dry skillet over high heat (oil is not needed
to cook quesadillas, contrary to many recipes), turning once. Spread
any of the Every Day Bean Mashes over half a tortilla (if folding
over) or an entire tortilla (if topping with another tortilla),
and add any of the fillings listed for Burritos/Wraps. Cook and
serve whole, or cut into wedges.
Bruschetta
is grilled or pan-seared crusty bread (Italian, French, sourdough,
or any sort of peasant bread) that has been rubbed with garlic.
Every Day Beans can be piled on top of a piece of bruschetta (delicately,
so that the bruschetta can be eaten by hand, or doled on heavily
so that the beans flow over the edges of the bread and onto the
plate, for an exceptional first course). Every Day Bean Mash can
be spread on the bruschetta. Additional toppings, like roasted red
peppers, salsa, anchovies, tapenade, chopped olives, capers or anything
else that suits your fancy, can be added for really extravagant
presentations. These bruschetta variations can be used to accompany
pasta or green salads or soups or pasta e fagioli or even another
main course.
Every Day Bean Mash of any variety can be used as a substitute or
addition to mayonnaise or mustard on sandwiches with other fillings,
or as the filling itself (between slices of bread, in pitas, on
crackers, or similar). Use one of the crusty rolls called bolillos
available in Hispanic markets to make the traditional Mexican sandwiches
called tortas, which often include (in addition to beans) tomatoes,
shredded lettuce, cheese, various meats, pickled onions or chiles,
and maybe a sprinkle or two of Mexican oregano (similar to Italian
oregano, but bolder).
OK, these aren’t blinis, they’re just “bean cakes”
or “bean patties,” but doesn’t “Bean Blini”
have a better sound to it? To one cup of Every Day Bean Mash, add
one egg, ½ t salt and several grinds of black pepper; 1 t
chile, some chopped green onion, and some roasted garlic are optional.
Mix thoroughly with a fork or spoon. In a frying pan on medium-high
heat, heat ¼ c oil (with a high smoking point, like peanut
or canola). Drop the bean-egg mixture into the oil by spoonfuls
(about 1 rounded T per blini), flatten slightly, and cook until
brown on the bottom. Turn with a spatula and continue frying until
second side is browned. Drain on a paper towel and serve hot. These
are great served with a tossed salad, crumbled over pasta, as a
bed for meats (see below), or just as a snack! Top them with smoked
salmon, gravlax, caviar, cheese, roasted red peppers, or any of
the burrito/wrap fillings, and use them as appetizers or hors d’euvres.
These “Bean Blinis” can also be wrapped and frozen,
but they will lose something texturally.
Every Day Beans
or Every Day Bean Mash can serve as a bed for any sort of pan-fried,
seared or roasted meat, poultry or fish. Every Day Bean Mash, if
loosened with a bit of water or stock, can be used to sauce any
of these meats, poultry or fish. You can also drape some spoonfuls
of Every Day Beans over these meats, poultry or fish, such as described
above for Bruschetta. Another favorite use is to use either form
of the beans as a base for a fried or poached egg, then top it with
your favorite salsa (roja o verde), some grated cheese, and you
have Huevos Rancheros. Try topping some steamed broccoli or other
vegetables with some of these flavorful beans, or just serve the
beans beside some green vegetables to offset the abundance of protein!
Toss these dishes with some chopped parsley,
and Voila! You have a $30 restaurant entrée for less than
$5 (even less than $1 if you buy the ingredients on sale, and stick
with vegetables).
Can these recipes be any easier? I hope
you’ll try several of them. I’m not good with factorials,
but I’d estimate that there are about two years’ worth
of recipes in this month’s column if you try one variation
every day. Can you imagine how much healthier and happier you will
be after those two years? Or even after one week? Use several of
these while entertaining, and you’ll be a big hit among your
guests (and not break the bank). I know I’ve put more than
a few smiles on diners’ faces with these recipes! You can,
too!
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