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Locally, our farmers’ markets have opened recently. One of
the joys of the earliest farmers’ markets is the availability
of fresh, organic greens. Whether I use them in basic salads, or
in sandwiches, or in pasta sauces, or in quiches, or any of a number
of applications, greens are a delicious source of many nutrients,
including beta-carotene, folate and iron.
Not only are greens delicious, but they also require only minimal
cooking when they are young. This is important to me because we
are getting into a season where I minimize turning on the stove,
and I never turn on the oven when the temperature rises above 75°F.
I always get a laugh out of people who, when I explain my threshold
for turning on my oven, respond with, “Oh? Don’t you
have air conditioning?” To be honest, I don’t have AC
in my kitchen, but that is beside the point. Think about it for
a moment: You are using natural resources to cool your home (and
paying for them), and then using other natural resources to heat
your home simultaneously (and paying for them), and doing all of
this when there are thousands, if not millions, of low-temperature
alternatives.
So, please enjoy the following easy recipes, their variations,
and their applications.
Salad Greens with Simple Vinaigrette
In previous months’ columns, I have referred to “simple
vinaigrettes,” only to be accosted with “Bret, what
is a simple vinaigrette?” I apologize for my assumptions,
and offer the following guidelines, along with the whine: “Vinaigrette”
has only THREE syllables … the word is NOT “vinegar-ette.”
During the growing season, my primary salads are mixed organic
baby greens (lettuces, chicories, etc.). I am spending some good
money for these mixed greens, so I don’t want to muck them
up with heavy, clunky dressings, or with highly seasoned dressings.
I simply use a good fruity olive oil, a nice acid (wine [YES, I
do mean wine, or champagne … you’ll be amazed by the
effect on the overall salad], wine vinegar, balsamico, lemon, lime,
orange, etc., solo or in combination), salt and pepper. So many
“simple” vinaigrettes also include mustard; mustard
is delicious in vinaigrettes, but if you are using baby greens with
delicate flavors, mustard will overwhelm them. The same can be said
for the addition of chopped shallots. Instead, I reserve my use
of mustard and shallots (or onion or scallions) for less interesting
greens and lettuces: romaine, leaf, bibb (NOTE: I did NOT mention
iceberg lettuce; not only does iceberg not have any flavor, but
it also has almost no nutrition, with the exception of some soluble
fiber; I use it on sandwiches when romaine or leaf lettuce are too
expensive, or when I want some real crunch).
There’s also the issue of cutting versus tearing versus doing
nothing at all. I tend to follow Asian philosophy in all types of
cooking, where the ease of dining is considered by the chef. I tear
my lettuces, even the micro-greens, into bite-sized pieces so that
diners won’t have to use knives, and so that I can get several
different types of lettuce in one bite. I dined in one upscale restaurant
where I ordered a Caesar salad; it arrived as two whole leaves of
Romaine lettuce with dressing drizzled on top, and I was NOT impressed
(I have not returned to that restaurant).
Here are some guidelines for vinaigrettes:
Per serving:
- 1 T olive oil (preferably extra-virgin and fruity, or slightly peppery)
- 1 t vinegar, wine or citrus (or a combination)
- salt to taste (less than 1/8 t)
- pepper to taste (about 5-10 grinds)
- up to 1 t mustard of your choice (optional)
- 2 c greens, torn into bite-sized pieces
This will give proportions for 4 servings:
- ¼ c olive oil
- 1 T plus 1 t vinegar, wine or citrus
- Salt to taste (up to ½ t)
- pepper to taste (20 to 40 grinds)
- about 1 T mustard of your choice (optional)
- 8 c greens, torn into bite-sized pieces.
Combine all of the ingredients except the greens in a large bowl
that can hold all of the greens loosely (note: if you want just
a “whisper” of garlic in your salad, rub the inside
of the bowl with half of a clove of fresh garlic). Using a fork
or a whisk (I hate cleaning whisks, so I use a fork), vigorously
whip the ingredients until the vinegar is emulsified evenly in the
oil, as if you were scrambling eggs. Add the greens and toss gently,
ideally with your hands (this is how I saw it being done at Chez
Panisse in Berkeley, where I had one of the best simple salads of
my life). Gently lift the dressed greens out of the bowl and onto
individual plates; serve immediately, perhaps with some of the accompaniments
listed below.
Accompaniments:
(pine nuts, walnuts,
pecans, pepitas, cashews, hazelnuts, peanuts, sunflower seeds, or
your favorite).
any bleu, or goat, or your favorite; my current favorite is Chaubier,
but that will probably change the next time I make a salad or
when winter
comes around again, I’ll share my recipes for cheese crackers
[straws] that make great additions to salads.
halved
or quartered grapes or cherries, or cubes/slices of peaches, apples,
plums, berries or other fresh fruit, or any dried fruit in bite-sized
pieces, included figs, dates, apricots, raisins, craisins, or other
… I’ve even used cashew fruit, though it isn’t
easy to find. A classic spring combo is sliced strawberries atop
greens dressed with olive oil and balsamico, with an extra heavy
grinding of black pepper on top of the strawberries … can
you say, “Yum!”?
Last month,
I offered a recipe for roasted strawberries that actually makes
a delicious addition to a green salad. Other roasted veggies, like
plums or apricots or other, will be fantastic on salads, as well,
roasted the same way. Don’t be afraid! Big deal chefs pulling
down six- or seven-figure incomes aren’t afraid, and believe
me, some of them make mistakes, BIG mistakes!
technically a fruit,
I’ll treat them separately here. Tomatoes make great additions
to simple salads, whether you use fresh grape/cherry tomatoes whole
or in halves and quarters, or larger fresh tomatoes cut into cubes
or wedges (by the way, try to leave the skin on; we all need more
fiber in our diets). I also like to rehydrate sun-dried tomatoes
(you can use oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, but they tend to be
more expensive; incorporate some of the flavored oil into your vinaigrette
if you use them, however), and sliver them on the salad. Finally,
one of my recent favorites is roasted cherry/grape tomatoes, which
freeze amazingly well, and keep me supplied with rich tomato taste
throughout the winter. Look for instructions on roasting tomatoes
(and other vegetables) in September’s Simple! Sensible! Sensational!®
column.
grated
carrots, sliced avocado (actually, this is also a fruit), cucumbers,
scallions, red onion slices, peapods, broccoli or cauliflower fleurets,
jicama, or anything else that enters your imagination!
I admit it! I am a roasted-vegetable addict, and I use them everywhere!
On their own, with meat or seafood, in quiches, in omelets, on sandwiches,
on bruschetta, tossed with pasta, and on salads. Whether root veggies
(potatoes, carrots, turnips, parsnips, sweet potatoes, etc), or
more tender veggies (like the asparagus presented last month, or
the ubiquitous roasted red peppers), roasted veggies can raise the
mundane to the sublime.
Turn a
salad course into an entrée by topping the salad few sautéed
or stir-fried shrimp or squid/calamari slices or lump crab or lobster
tail, or thinly-sliced rare pan-seared beef (or ahi tuna), or thinly
sliced pan-fried pork, or thinly-sliced duck, or slices/pieces of
leftover chicken or turkey, or crispy fried bacon or pancetta, or
strips of prosciutto or other ham, or your favorite salami or other
luncheon meat, strips or cubes.
I usually serve slices of some sort of artisanal bread (soudough,
or French, or Italian, or multi-grain, or some of the Georgian bread
I find in my neighborhood, or your favorite). Above, I mentioned
the homemade cheese crackers/straws that go so well with simple
salads. You may like croutons, or toast or bread sticks; be my guest!
Try grilling or baking slices of baguette for bruschetta, and topping
them with your favorite cheeses or sauces, and serving this alongside
a salad! Or, I like to make patties from leftover mashed potatoes,
colcannon, champ, and similar smashed root vegetable dishes, and
either pan fry them or bake them for a great salad side (add some
goat cheese, and you are on a new plateau). Check out a previous
column for my Bean Blinis that are delicious next to a salad (or
just toss some Basic Beans on your salad).
Sliced/chopped
hard cooked eggs; marinated artichoke hearts (save the marinade
from the jar and use this as a sensational salad dressing, perhaps
with a bit more olive oil added); capers; slivered or sliced olives
(black or green); canned tuna (see last month’s recipe for
Salade Niçoise); leftover veggies and meat form last night’s
dinner (try it; you’ll like it!); sliced fresh mushrooms;
marinated mushrooms; sautéed mushrooms; rehydrated wild mushrooms
(morels, chanterelles, porcini, etc.).
Variations:
For each individual
portion of salad, add up to ½ t finely minced fresh garlic
to the vinaigrette along with the other ingredients. Alternatively,
add up to 1 t of roasted garlic per portion.
Substitute toasted
sesame oil for HALF of the olive oil, and use rice wine vinegar
or lime juice for the acid. A squeeze or two of fish sauce also
makes a delicious addition. For Asian salads, I tend to use cashews
and/or almonds, and omit the cheese, but a few sautéed shrimp
or squid/calamari slices or thinly-sliced rare pan-seared beef,
or thinly sliced pan-fried pork, or thinly-sliced duck, or slices/pieces
of leftover chicken.
ubiquitous
alongside most Mexican meals, this salad uses only Romaine lettuce
cut into fine slivers (chiffonade), about ¼” to 3/8”
wide, and the full width of the leaf. The dressing, per 2 c serving,
is 1 T olive oil, 2 t lime juice, and salt and pepper to taste.
Toss and serve topped with queso fresco next to your favorite Mexican
recipe, whether for breakfast, lunch or dinner (this salad often
accompanies various huevos recipes for breakfast, so don’t
be intimidated to allow the tang of the lime juice brighten your
morning!).
Applications:
I’ve seen salads placed on top of grilled or pan-seared meats,
but this just strikes me as silly. Essentially, you have to scrape
the salad off before cutting into the meat, so I’m not going
to recommend this version of “tall” food even if it
is initially esthetically-pleasing. The point in applying salads
is to remember they generally provide a “sour” element
to the palate. If your menu is balanced with sweet, salty and bitter
elements, add some vinegar- or citrus-rich salad to round out everything.
Or, if other dishes have “sour” already, make sure that
your salad contributes other flavors, along with some additional
“sour” to tie it into the rest of the menu. One cannot
really “apply” salads otherwise, because the lettuces
are so delicate that they will just wilt.
In the American
South, wilted greens are quite delicious, and have made their into
upscale restaurants where this dish may be called, “Baby Spinach
with Warm Fancy-Pants Bacon Vinaigrette.” Begin with ¼
lb of bacon (cut in ¼” strips, or in 3/8” squares)
fried in a large (12”) skillet until crisp, then removed,
leaving about 1 or 2 T of bacon fat. One pound of well-washed greens
(about 6 c; spinach is traditional, but sturdy lettuces, such as
romaine, and other greens, like kale, will work) should be torn
or sliced into large pieces (maybe 2” square on average) and
added to the hot bacon fat with the moisture from washing still
clinging. Add 1 t salt, about 20 grinds of black pepper, ¼
c to ½ c of vinegar, and about 2 T sugar to the greens, and
stir, steam and turn the greens until they begin to wilt, becoming
dressed with the fat, vinegar, salt, pepper and sugar (covering
the skillet is useful to speed the wilting). For additional flavor,
add about ¼ c finely chopped onion to the bacon fat and cook
until translucent before adding the greens; about 1 T of finely
minced garlic can be added to the bacon fat just 30 seconds before
the greens are added. Instead of vinegar, consider using lemon or
orange juice, and then enhancing that flavor by adding the finely
minced zest (1 to 2 T). Serve hot as a side dish or draped over
pan-seared meat or fish, with the fried bacon crumbled on top for
flavor and texture. If you prefer to avoid the saturated fat of
the bacon, either eliminate it completely and use olive oil, or
sauté some lean prosciutto in olive oil. As yet another alternative,
delicate greens can be gently warmed (not wilted) in a vinaigrette
and then added at the last minute to a meat or shellfish or fish
dish, or added to a risotto for extra texture and flavor.
If you add a salad or side dish of mixed or single greens with
a simple vinaigrette to your daily diet, your overall health will
increase, I assure you. I know mine has! Call or e-mail me if you
think you need a helping hand.
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