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This month, I needed to pull some dishes together to bring to a
potluck at the Organic Food Network where I was speaking/leading
a discussion on the science of cooking and the art of dining (touching
on sensory psychology, satiation, and the biological pros and cons
of “raw food”). I needed something vegetarian and/or
vegan, and I wanted to avoid anything requiring much cooking (that
does NOT mean I promote this so-called “living foods”
movement), so I decided on a trio of mezze (Middle Eastern appetizers):
hummus, baba ghanouj and tabbouleh. If you want to serve these dishes
at home, add the “Mediterranean mix” to the table, and
maybe even one of the versions of tomato salad at the bottom of
this column (not to mention one of the cucumber and yogurt salads
presented in July’s Simple! Sensible! Sensational!®
column).
HUMMUS
Way back in March, when I was on a legume kick, I presented my
recipe for hummus, that garlicky chickpea and tahini mixture.
Please visit that link, as I have nothing to add unless you want
to replace the raw garlic with the same or up to double the amount
of roasted garlic. This is also a great time of year to roast a
bunch of red peppers and either garnish the hummus with slices of
roasted red peppers, or chop them and stir them into the hummus
(one large red pepper will yield about ½ c chopped roasted
red pepper, which is what you need for one batch of hummus).
BABA GHANOUJ (ROASTED EGGPLANT WITH
TAHINI)
I adapted a recipe by Claudia Rodin (1968. A Book of Middle Eastern
Food. Vintage Books: New York. 453 pp.) to create this simple, straightforward,
flavor-packed salad/dip.
- 1 eggplant (about one pound) or multiple smaller ones
- 2 T olive oil
- 1 t garlic (about 2 small cloves), finely minced
- 2 T tahini
- 1 lemon, juiced (about 2 T)
- ½ to 1 t salt (to taste)
- 2 T parsley, finely chopped (or more to taste) (optional)
- ¼ to ½ t ground cumin (preferably roasted) (optional)
Halve eggplant; wipe cut surface with olive oil; place on oven-proof
surface and bake cut surface down at 350 degrees F for one hour.
Remove and allow to cool to handle. Gently remove eggplant pulp
from skin and coarsely dice pulp. Place pulp in bowl, add remaining
ingredients, and stir with a spoon until ingredients are thoroughly
combined. Serve chilled or at room temperature as a dip or side
dish.
There are many variations of this recipe. Feel free to alter the
basic proportions to your taste. If you have a grill and are cooking
other ingredients, the eggplant is more traditionally cooked over
an open flame for this recipe (I have roasted a whole [uncut] eggplant
over the flame of my gas stove burner with great success [and smokiness
in both the eggplant and the room!]). The recipe can be accompanied
with chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, and/or olives. Additional olive
oil can be drizzled on top of the finished dish. The basic mixture
can also be frozen for later use.
This sort of eggplant puree has also been variously adapted as
“Eggplant Caviar” by adding chopped onion, minced celery,
and a host of other ingredients and herbs. However, it all started
with Baba Ghanouj. Here are some examples:
Minty Baba Ghanouj: This version
is identical to the traditional baba ghanouj, except replace the
parsley with 2-4 T fresh mint.
Southwestern Baba Ghanouj: This
version is also identical to traditional baba ghanouj, except omit
the tahini, replace the lemon juice with an equal amount of lime
juice, and replace the parsley with ½ cup of cilantro, chopped
and somewhat tightly packed. Optionally, you may add ¼ t
to ½ t of your favorite chile powder (chipotle powder is
particularly good). Serve with tortilla chips or crusty bread slices.
TABBOULEH (PARSLEY AND BULGUR SALAD)
I tend to think of Claudia Rodin as THE authority on Middle Eastern
cuisine. I have adapted her tabbouleh recipe from A Book of Middle
Eastern Food (1968. Vintage Books: New York. 453 pp.). I altered
the proportions to both turn this into more of a “parsley
salad” (as recommended by food writer David Rosengarten) and
to enhance and balance the flavors. I’m sure you’ll
enjoy this version.
- 1 c bulgur wheat
- 1.5 c boiling water
- 1 t salt (more to taste)
- ½ c finely chopped scallion or onion
- 1 c finely chopped Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
- ¼ c olive oil
- ¼ c lemon juice
- ½ c finely chopped fresh mint (optional)
- ½ c chopped ripe tomatoes (optional)
Place the bulgur in a heatproof bowl, and add the boiling water;
stir to moisten all grains, and cover for about 15 minutes. Stir again,
and cover for another 15 minutes. Drain off any residual water (note:
the interiors of each grain should still be firm; they will soften
with the addition of other moist ingredients, and absorb their flavors).
Add the remaining ingredients and stir gently until combined well.
Taste and adjust the salt if needed. Cover and chill for at least
30 minutes. Serve alone, with other dishes, or with some cured black
olives or sliced cucumbers.
Variations:
Rice Salad: A tasty way to use leftover
white, brown and/or wild rice is to replace the soaked bulgur with
about 2 c of cooked rice.
Orzo Salad: Although there are many
ways to make “pasta salad,” including “pasta salad
with vinaigrette,” I present the option of substituting about
2 c of cooked rice-shaped orzo pasta (about 1 c prior to cooking in
boiling, salted water) for the bulgur. You can try using other pastas,
but the other ingredients will need adjustment.
MEDITERRANEAN MIX
This is really not so much a recipe as it is a presentation. I love
this sort of thing for lunch, but it is also a terrific way to start
a meal or as a buffet item at a party. Think of it as a selection
of antipasti, arranged neatly and attractively on a large platter
(preferably white, to show off the beautiful innate colors of the
ingredients), with or without a bed of lettuce. There is no “wrong”
way to do this, so just do it and enjoy.
Olives (black, green, dried, in oil
or brine, marinated or not)
Roasted peppers (red peppers are traditional,
but any color of bell pepper can be roasted, as can any chile, with
jalapenos and poblanos being the least fiery); roasted peppers can
be purchased in bottled form (they really don’t taste much like
home-roasted), or you can roast a pile o’ peppers when you have
some time, but clean them well and cut them into small pieces (2”
square, or so), and freeze them in plastic dishes with a film of olive
oil separating each layer of peppers; when you thaw them, save the
olive oil with pepper juice for a fantastic salad dressing)
Salami and/or other meat(s), such
as prosciutto (domestic or imported), serrano ham, even good quality
bologna
Canned fish are a great addition to this combination: sardines
(in oil, mustard sauce, or other permutation), tuna (any type, remembering
that “Light Tuna in Water” will have the fewest categories,
and you can always drizzle your own flavorful extra virgin olive oil
over the top), anchovies (if you are adding them to this platter,
please rinse them first)
Cheese: preferably, you will get some
sort of artisanal cheese rather than one of those mass-produced bricks
(I use these bricks for other recipes, but not where the cheese needs
to stand on its own). For cheese-munching of this variety, I like
a variety of goat cheeses, bleu cheeses and double/triple creams.
Go for quality, not quantity in this instance!
Breads: baguettes or any other substantial
bread, sliced thinly (the bread can be room temperature, or warm;
I place the slices in a microwaveable bowl lined with a cloth napkin
or towel, fold the corners over the bread, and microwave for 30 seconds;
voila! Warm bread!); crackers are another good addition, as are pita
triangles (cut pita bread into quarters, but do not separate the halves;
these can be warmed like the sliced bread, if desired). SUMMER
TOMATO SALAD
During the short tomato season, I cannot get enough of these delicious
fruits (yes, botanically they are fruits). I could write an entire
column on tomatoes (for example, suggesting you add some sliced
or quartered tomatoes to the Mediterranean Mix presentation above),
but I’ll return to these delights next month. This month,
I wanted to point out how understanding botany can be helpful in
cooking. Tomatoes and basil are a classic combination, so I started
thinking about what else would work well. By visiting the same botanical
family as basil, Lamiaceae (or Labiatae, depending on whom you ask,
and whether they recognize that this family is paraphyletic with
the Verbenaceae), I encountered mint (I also encountered rosemary
and thyme, but they’ll have to wait until next month). Mint
of all kinds is fabulous with tomatoes, and I devised the following
salad ideas to highlight this marriage.
Per serving:
- ½ c chopped tomato
- 2 T chopped fresh mint
- 2 T olive oil
- 2 t balsamico
- salt/pepper to taste
Combine ingredients and serve as a first course, or with some mesclun
in a vinaigrette for a light lunch.
Applications:
Pasta Sauce: Spoon the mixture over
your favorite poached or pan-seared meat, fish or poultry, or atop
¼ lb freshly cooked pasta with some grated cheese (if desired).
Serve with one of the salads presented in June’s and July’s
Simple! Sensible! Sensational!® recipes.
Salad Variation I: Slice the tomatoes
(consider using red and yellow, or some of the mottled heirloom varieties),
and spread them on a plate attractively, and douse with the ingredients.
Salad Variation II (aka Pseudo-Insalata Caprese):
Insalata Caprese is made by alternating sliced red tomatoes, fresh
mozzarella (preferably buffalo) and basil leaves (representing not
only great flavor but also the colors of the Italian flag), but in
this version, replace the basil with mint (and, by the way, instead
of the mint in any of these recipes, you can use basil). As long as
we are going “pseudo Caprese,” try using other varieties
of cheese instead of the mozzarella … there are hundreds and
thousands of variations!
Bruschetta: toast some bread rounds
on the grill or in a super-heated skillet, then rub with a cut garlic
clove around the margin, drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil,
and top with the chopped tomato and mint mixture.
Once again, tally the variations theoretically possible with the
above recipes, and you’ve got several hundred thousand recipes
(maybe millions?). Eat up!
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